We drove to what they called a hunting "compound" in Dureji, in the south of Baluchistan Province. This is up in the mountains; the area is very arid and has suffered a five-year drought. There was no grass, only shrubs, and it was terribly rocky and sandy. The compound, however, was as nice as any hotel I have ever stayed in. The rooms were enormous, with great beds, a comfortable couch and coffee table for lounging, plus baths with real marble. My room and my guide's room were in a separate building from the main house, which featured a living area and a dining room. There were three servants who waited on us. We ate our morning and evening meals here. Lunch was in the field. Dinners were made up of five different dishes, including chicken, lamb and goat. My guide gave me the traditional garb of Pakistani men to wear at each evening meal.
The compound was run by a wealthy Pakistani whose brother is a member of the Pakistani congress. He was the chairman of the Dureji Environmental and Wildlife Society and responsible for the wildlife management in this area. He ate dinner with us each night, and we pleasantly conversed about numerous........(continued)